Bare Shaft Tuning
An introduction to bare shaft tuning, with details of how to carry out the process and advantages of it.



Bare shaft tuning is a method of tuning which is popular with most target archers, although it generally more popular with recurve archers as basically it is a finger release tuning method so therefore it is only possible for compound archers shooting limited (finger release) to carry out this form of tuning. This method of tuning focuses on the archers ability to shoot groups, if you are having a bad day or weather conditions do not permit, then bare shaft tuning at this time is pointless. The idea behind bare shaft tuning is for the archer to shoot a group of fletched arrows, 3 - 6, and then to shoot 2 - 3 bare shafts. If your equipment is well tuned and you are shooting well, the bare shaft should impact in the middle of your group.


Bare Shaft Impact Patterns - Comparison Chart

Click Here for Diagram

The diagram  is to give a rough idea of how bare shaft tuning works, and also serve as a basic guide to bare shaft impact patterns for a RIGHT HANDED archer. For a LEFT HANDED archer, the horizontal impact patterns are reversed. Of course, the above impact patterns do not happen that way, more a combination of both. When you have a combination of two patterns, it is always advisable to correct the vertical problems first before moving on to the horizontal problems. Often, correcting the vertical problems has a large impact on the horizontal problems. Arrows can be shot at any distance, but the results you gain at one distance while tuning do not guarantee the results will be the same at another. It is recommended to shoot between 15 - 20 meters, but people have been known to bare shaft tune at anything up to 70 metres or beyond. Personally I recommend, just as an experiment, to first tune at the recommended 15-20 metres, until you tuned and receive the correct results i.e. the bare shafts close to the fletched arrows. Then repeat the tuning at a longer distance, possibly 50 - 60 meters, to compare the result. The aim of this would be to hopefully gain the same results, if so then, you can be reasonably sure that you equipment is well tuned.  


Nocking point - Vertical Impacts Problems

The nocking point used on a bow setup is very important, as I am sure you all know. It is always important to correct this first. If the nocking point is incorrect, the arrow will leave the bow in a up-down motion called 'PORPOISING'.

Click Here to view and example of porpoising

Once you have shot your group of 3 or more fletched arrows, proceed to shoot 2 bare shafts. Try not to think about the arrow in the bow as a bare shaft, and just shoot it like any other arrow. If your bare shafts impact above the group then you have a low nocking point and should move your nocking point up a little then repeat the process again. If your bare shafts impact below the group then you have a high nocking point and you should move your nocking point down a little and repeat the process. Once you have found your idea nocking point, the bare shaft should impact at the same elevation as the fletched arrows.

Now that you have corrected the vertical problems, we can move on to the horizontal impacts.


Arrow stiffness/Weakness problems - Horizontal Impact Problems

If the arrow leaves the bow with the nock end leaning from one side to the other, then FISHTAILING will occur. Do not worry, fishtailing this can be corrected.

If your bare shafts impact to the right of the group (for a left handed archer, opposite for right) then the arrow is too stiff. To correct this problem you can :-

  • Decrease spring tension on your cushion plunger (button).

  • Increase your draw weight (if possible).

  • Increase arrow point weight.

If your bare shaft impacts to the left of the group (for a left handed archer, opposite for right) then the arrow is too weak. To correct this problem you can :-

  • Increase spring tension on your cushion plunger.

  • Decrease your draw weight (if possible).

  • Decrease arrow point weight.

Once you have adjusted your equipment, shoot your arrows again to see if further adjustment is necessary. However, when trying to correct fishtailing problems, you may not be successful if your arrows are too weak or too stiff. In this case, you will have to modify your equipment in order to get a good tune, this may involve buying new arrows.


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